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Posts from the ‘Desserts’ Category

A Tribute to Spring

Spring Flowers

Guacamole with Tortilla Chips, Pistachios
Shaved Asparagus Salad with Lemon and Parmesan
Roasted Halibut with Gingered Tomato Mango Salsa
Mini Potatoes Anna
Mixed Berry Gratin
Chocolate Cookies

Gardens are bursting with colour and markets here in Vancouver are selling gorgeous fresh halibut, asparagus and berries. OK, the asparagus and berries are not exactly local yet, they are from California, but they do taste more like the real deal at this time of the year. This menu is a tribute to my favourite season, Spring: full of colour, new growth, and promise. I hope this menu lives up to your spring expectations!

Shaved Asparagus Salad with Lemon and Parmesan
This salad, with thanks to Smitten Kitchen, is a lively balance of textures and flavours with the raw asparagus, Parmesan, nuts and lemon. The quantities can be adjusted to taste. Just make sure that you buy very fresh asparagus with medium-thick stalks.

1/4 c. pine nuts, toasted on a baking sheet in a 350ºF for 5-10 minutes, watching closely so they don’t burn
1 lb. asparagus, rinsed
1 lemon, halved
olive oil
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1 – 2 oz. Parmesan cheese

No need to snap off the tough ends of your asparagus. Lay a single stalk on its side on a cutting board. Holding onto the tough end, use a vegetable peeler to shave off thin asparagus ribbons from stalk to tip, peeling away from the tough end in your hand. They will look like this:

Asparagus Salad, Shaved

Discard the tough ends once you’re done peeling, but if there are some good pieces of asparagus that didn’t shave evenly, save them and add to a soup or pasta dish another time. Gently pile the ribbons on a medium-sized serving platter, or onto individual salad plates. Squeeze some lemon juice over the asparagus, drizzle with a bit of olive oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Toss gently and then use your peeler to shave curls of Parmesan right off the block, over the asparagus. Sprinkle with the toasted pine nuts.

In Advance: You can grate the asparagus several hours ahead and keep it chilled until ready to assemble and dress the salad. Pine nuts can be toasted several days in advance and kept in a covered jar in the fridge.

Roasted Halibut with Gingered Tomato Mango Salsa

Tomato and Mango Salsa

This recipe was inspired by Dorie Greenspan’s scallop dish. The tomatoes, mangos and  preserved lemon are a wonderful marriage of colours and flavours, very fitting for this Spring menu. I used halibut, but you could also use scallops, or any other fresh white fish.

2 green onions, finely sliced (or finely sliced red onion)
About 2 t. minced fresh ginger
1/2 preserved lemon, rinsed well and finely diced
1/2 jalapeno or other chile, seeded and minced
1 or 2 limes
1 large mango, ripe but firm, peeled and cut into small cubes
1/2 pint (or more) grape or cherry tomatoes, quartered
Arugula and/or mixed greens

6-5oz. centre-cut skinless halibut filets
1/4 c. fresh lemon juice
1/4 c. extra-virgin olive oil
2 cloves garlic, minced
1/2 t. Kosher salt
1/4 t. freshly ground black pepper

For the salsa: Toss the green onions (or red onion), ginger, preserved lemon and chile into a mixing bowl. Season with salt and pepper, pour in a tablespoon or two of olive oil, grate the zest of one lime over the mix and give everything a good stir. Stir in the mango and tomatoes, squeeze the lime juice over the salsa and taste for seasoning and for more juice and/or olive oil.

For the fish: In a small bowl, whisk together the lemon juice, olive oil, garlic, salt, and pepper until smooth. Pour the mixture into a sealable plastic bag or a glass baking dish. Add the halibut and coat it with the lemon mixture. Refrigerate for 35 minutes.

In Advance: You can make the salsa and combine marinade ingredients for the fish several hours in advance. Cover both and leave at room temperature.

Preheat the oven to 400 ºF. and spray a small baking sheet or glass baking dish with vegetable cooking spray, or brush with olive oil. Remove the halibut from the marinade and arrange on the prepared baking sheet. Roast until the fish flakes easily with a fork, about 10-15 minutes.

To serve, place some arugula or other greens on the plate and top with the halibut. Add salsa and one Mini Potato Anna to finish plating.

Mini Potatoes Anna (photo below was taken before the final baking)

Mini Pommes Anna

This is a recipe contributed by Molly Stevens to Bon Appetit magazine, November 2012. It appeals to me because it can be mostly prepared in advance, and makes for easy individual plating.

1/2 c. (1 stick) unsalted butter
12-24 small tender thyme sprigs plus 2 t. coarsely chopped leaves
1 garlic clove, minced
1 3/4 pounds small waxy potatoes (such as Yukon Gold), each slightly larger than a golf ball
2 t. Kosher salt
freshly ground black pepper

A standard 12-cup muffin pan; a mandoline (optional)

Preheat oven to 350 °F. Melt butter in a small saucepan over medium heat. Brush muffin cups lightly all over with butter. Line bottoms of a standard 12-cup muffin pan with parchment-paper rounds. Arrange 1-2 small thyme sprigs in centre of each round. Drizzle 1/2 t. butter into bottom of each cup.

Add chopped thyme and garlic to remaining butter in saucepan. Stir over medium-low heat until fragrant, about 2 minutes. Remove from heat.

Using a mandoline, a sharp knife, or a slicer as shown here, slice potatoes crosswise into very thin rounds (less than 1/16-inch thick) placing them in a large bowl as you work.

Mini Pommes Anna Grating

Pour herb butter over and season with salt and pepper; toss to coat well. Divide potato slices among muffin cups, layering overlapping slices to create a circular pattern. Lightly press centre of each to make compact. Drizzle over any remaining butter and seasoning from bowl.

Cover muffin pan tightly with foil and place on a baking sheet. Bake until potatoes can be pierced easily with the tip of a knife, about 35 minutes. Remove foil; invert a rimmed baking sheet over pan. Turn, lightly tapping on counter, releasing potatoes onto sheet. Rearrange any slices that may have fallen out. Discard parchment.

In Advance: Potatoes can be assembled, baked and released onto a baking sheet, then covered and chilled.

Increase heat to 425 ºF. Uncover cakes if needed. Bake until bottoms and edges are golden and crispy, 25-30 minutes.

Mixed Berry Gratin

Berry Gratin

This idea comes from Huffpost Taste, April 2013. Warming the berries enhances their flavour and the browned cream topping adds elegance to a simply prepared dish.

1 c. heavy cream
1 t. vanilla paste or 1 vanilla bean
4 eggs, separated
3/4 c. superfine sugar
1 T. cornstarch
Splash of rum or Grand Marnier (optional)
18 oz. mixed summer berries, such as strawberries, blueberries, raspberries, and blackberries

Heat the cream in a saucepan on low heat with the vanilla paste or cut the vanilla bean in half lengthwise, scrape out the seeds with a small knife into the pan, and add the bean to infuse. Don’t let it come to a boil.

In another saucepan, beat together the egg yolks, sugar, and cornstarch and slowly pour the hot cream over the mixture. Place the pan over low heat and stir continuously until the custard thickens to the consistency of thin yogurt, 5 to 6 minutes. Don’t leave the custard on the stove without stirring or you will end up with scrambled eggs. Once thickened, take it off the heat and remove the vanilla bean, if using. Add a splash of rum or Grand Marnier at this stage, if you wish.

In Advance: Pour custard into a bowl, cover and refrigerate for a few hours, until ready to assemble dessert. Wash berries and slice or halve strawberries, if large.

Preheat the broiler and place the upper rack about 4″ from the heat. Scatter the mixed berries in the bottom of either individual heatproof bowls or one large baking dish.

Beat the egg whites with a hand-held electric mixer until firm peaks start to form and carefully fold into the thickened custard. Pour the mixture over the berries and place under the broiler until an even golden brown, 1 to 2 minutes. Serve warm.

Chocolate Cookies

Chocolate Cookies

With another nod to Smitten Kitchen, these intensely flavoured chocolate cookies pair well with the Berry Gratin, and can be stored in an airtight container for up to two weeks. They also freeze very well.
Makes 40-48 2″ thin cookies, fewer if thicker.

1 c. all-purpose flour
1/3 c. cocoa powder
1/4 t. baking soda
1/2 c. unsalted butter, room temperature
1/2 to 2/3 c. granulated sugar (less for a more bittersweet cookie)
1/4 t. fine sea salt
1 large egg yolk
1/2 t. vanilla extract
3 1/2 oz. semi- or bittersweet chocolate, grated or finely chopped until almost powdery in a food processor
Coarse sugar (such as Demerara) for sprinkling

Sift together the flour, cocoa and baking soda onto a piece of waxed paper or into a bowl and set aside.

Cream butter, sugar and salt together in a large bowl with an electric mixer until light and fluffy. Add egg yolk and vanilla, beating until combined, then scraping down sides. Add dry ingredients and grated chocolate together and mix until just combined.

Scrape dough onto a piece of plastic wrap, wrap it up and chill it in the fridge until just firm, about 30 to 45 minutes. No need to get it fully hard, or it will be harder to roll out. Dough can be refrigerated until needed, up to two days, or frozen longer, but let it warm up and soften a bit before rolling it out to make it easier to roll.

Heat oven to 350 °F. On a floured surface, roll dough gently — it will still be on the crumbly side, so only attempt to flatten it slightly with each roll — until it is 1/8-inch to 1/4-inch thick. Cut into desired shapes and space them an inch apart on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Sprinkle decoratively with coarse sugar. Bake for 8 to 10 minutes (for thinner cookies) or 10 to 12 minutes (for thicker ones). Leave cookies on baking sheets out of the oven for a couple minutes before carefully transferring them to cooling racks, as they’ll be fragile until they cool.

Moroccan Dinner for 6

Assorted homemade or purchased appetizers: hummus, baba ghanoush, olives, grilled flatbread or crackers, pistachios
Orange and Grated Radish Salad with Orange Blossom Water
Moroccan Chicken
Couscous with Tomato and Onion
Roasted Butternut Squash and Red Onion with Tahini Sauce and Za’atar
Tarte Tatin with Apples, Raisins and Orange Blossom Water

While testing recipes using preserved lemons and preparing a dinner menu, I began with the main dish, Moroccan chicken, a recipe recently given to me by my cousin, Daphne. I then drew inspiration from two wonderful cookbooks: Paula Wolfert”s “The Food of Morocco” and Yotam Ottolenghi and Sami Tamimi’s “Jerusalem, a Cookbook”. I simplified the menu by purchasing the hummus and baba ghanoush, and serving them with olives and sesame crackers.

Orange and Grated Radish Salad with Orange Blossom Water
Morrocan Orange Salad

On the Moroccan table, several salads are served at once. These will be made with seasonal vegetables and fruit and can mostly be prepared in advance. In order to make this dinner more manageable and to fit with my custom of serving a soup or salad as a first course, I made the following salad, adapting it from Paula Wolfert’s book, by adding avocado slices (not in photo) and reducing the intensely-flavoured orange blossom water from 2-3 teaspoons, to 1 teaspoon. It is a refreshing introduction to the intense flavours which follow in the main course. Prepare the radishes, oranges and dressing early in the day and keep them cold until ready to finish and serve the salad. Slice the avocado at the last minute, if using.

2 bunches red radishes, washed and trimmed
1 1/2 T. sugar
4 navel oranges
1 large avocado, sliced

Dressing: 2 T. orange juice, 1 t. orange blossom water* 1 1/2 T. lemon juice (or more to taste), salt, mint leaves for garnish
*available at specialty markets…I purchased it at Yek o Yek on Main Street in Vancouver.

Using the shredding disk, shred the radishes in a food processor. Alternatively, you can slice them finely. Sprinkle them with sugar and let sit for 15 minutes. Drain the excess liquid from the radishes, wrap them tightly in plastic wrap, and refrigerate until chilled.

Peel the oranges, making sure to remove all of the white pith, then slice them thinly, cover and chill.

Make the dressing: Mix the orange juice, orange flower water, lemon juice and salt to taste in a small bowl. Unwrap the radishes, add to the bowl and toss. Taste, and add more lemon juice or salt, as necessary. Arrange the orange slices, and avocado (if using), in a spiral fashion on each salad plate. Sprinkle with radishes and dressing and garnish with mint leaves.

Moroccan Chicken
As mentioned above, this recipe was given to me by my cousin, Daphne, who was given it by a friend who lived in Morocco. I am always eager to try any recipe recommended by Daphne, and this one is a winner.

Spice Blend (called Ras-El-Hanout, and available at specialty markets, but homemade is always fresher and more intensely flavoured. Make it ahead: it will keep for a few weeks.)
1 t. each fennel, cumin, coriander seeds, toasted and ground
1 t. each ground turmeric and ground cinnamon
2 t. each sweet paprika and ground ginger
1/2 t. each cayenne, ground nutmeg, cloves, allspice and cardamom
1/2 t. each freshly ground pepper and salt
Makes 1/4 cup

2 T. olive oil
3 c. onions, sliced
1/4 c. fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped
6 medium garlic cloves, minced
1 cup chicken broth
1 small can coconut milk
2 quarters preserved lemon, rinsed, seeds and pulp removed
10-12 chicken thighs, skinned, bone-in
10 dried apricots, sliced
1 c. mixed Sicilian olives, pitted

Rub 1 T. of spice mixture over chicken and allow to stand 1 hour.
Sauté onions in olive oil until soft in a heavy stove and oven-proof pot with a lid. Add ginger and garlic and cook until fragrant. Add 2 T. of spice mix and cook stirring, 1 minute. Add chicken broth, coconut milk, olives, apricots and lemon. Add chicken, cover pot and bake at 325ºF for 90 minutes.

Chicken Tagine etc.

Couscous with Tomato and Onion
This recipe is from Jerusalem, a Cookbook. I like the way it can be mostly made ahead and when it is done, it has a crispy crust and can be cut into pie-shaped portions, a nice variation from a heap of couscous on the plate.

3 T. olive oil
1 medium onion, finely chopped
1 T. tomato paste
1/2 t. sugar
2 very ripe tomatoes, cut into 1/4″ dice
1 scant c. couscous
1 scant c. boiling chicken or vegetable stock
2 1/2 T. unsalted butter
salt and pepper

Pour two tablespoons of the olive oil into a non-stick pan about 8 1/2″ in diameter, and place over medium heat. Add the onion and cook for five minutes, stirring often, until it has softened but not coloured. Stir in the tomato paste and sugar and cook for one minute. Add the tomatoes, 1/2 t. salt and some black pepper and cook for three minutes.

Meanwhile, put the couscous in a shallow bowl, pour over the boiling stock and cover with plastic wrap. Set aside for 10 minutes, then remove the cover and fluff the couscous with a fork. Add the tomato sauce and stir well. You can prepare this up to this point several hours ahead, then continue on with recipe.

Wipe the pan clean and heat the butter and remaining 1 T. olive oil over medium heat. When the butter has melted, spoon the couscous into the pan and use the back of the spoon to gently pat it down so it is all packed in snugly. Cover the pan, reduce the heat to its lowest setting and allow the couscous to steam for 10-12 minutes, until you can see a light brown colour around the edges. Use a palette or other knife to help you peer between the edge of the couscous and the side of the pan: you want a really crisp edge all over the base and sides.

Place a large plate on top of the pan and quickly turn the couscous on to the plate. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Roasted Butternut Squash and Red Onion with Tahini Sauce
Also from Jerusalem, a Cookbook, this recipe can be made hours ahead of time (without adding the dressing) and reheated and dressed just before serving, or it can be served at room temperature. In this version, the squash and onion are left unpeeled, but I peeled mine…I’m sure it’s good either way.

1 large butternut squash, cut into 3/4 by 2 1/2″ wedges
2 red onions, cut into 1 1/4″ wedges
3 1/2 T. olive oil
3 1/2 T. light tahini paste
1 1/2 T. lemon juice
2 T. water
1 small clove garlic, crushed
3 1/2 T. pine nuts
1 T. za’atar
1 T. coarsely chopped flat leaf parsley
salt and freshly ground black pepper

Preheat the oven to 475ºF.
Put the squash and onion in a large mixing bowl, add 3 T. of the oil, 1 t. salt and some black pepper and toss well. Spread on a baking sheet with the skin facing down and roast in the oven for 30 to 40 minutes, until the vegetables have taken on some color and are cooked through. Keep an eye on the onions as they might cook faster than the squash and need to be removed earlier. Remove from the oven and leave to cool.

To make the sauce, place the tahini in a small bowl along with the lemon juice, water, garlic, and 1/4 t. salt. Whisk until the sauce is the consistency of honey, adding more water or tahini if necessary.
Pour the remaining 1 1/2 t. oil into a small frying pan and place over medium-low heat. Add the pine nuts along with the 1/2 t. salt and cook for 2 minutes, stirring often, until the nuts are golden brown. Remove from the heat and transfer the nuts and oil to a small bowl to stop the cooking.

To serve, spread the vegetables out on a large serving platter and drizzle over the tahini. Sprinkle the pine nuts and their oil on top, followed by the za’atar and parsley.

Moroccan Vegetables

Tarte Tatin with Apples, Raisins and Orange Blossom Water
This recipe of Paula Wolfert’s takes the classic tart and gives it a Moroccan twist.

1/2 cup dark raisins
1/4 cup orange flower water
8 T. (1 stick) unsalted butter
1/2 c. sugar
10 Golden Delicious apples
juice of 1-2 lemons
one 8-ounce frozen puff pastry
crème fraiche or vanilla ice cream

Soak the raisins in the rose water until ready to use.
Slowly melt the butter in a 12″ shallow non-stick ovenproof pan. Sprinkle the sugar evenly over the melted butter and cook on low heat for 5 minutes, without letting the sugar darken. Remove from the heat and let the butter cool until solidified.

Meanwhile, peel, halve, and core the apples; use a soft pastry brush to paint lemon juice on each half to prevent browning. Arrange 12 of the apple halves cut side up in a slightly overlapping circle around the edge of the pan, all facing in the same direction. Place the remaining halves in the center to fill in the empty spaces.

Set the pan over medium heat and cook until the juices from the apples, along with the butter and sugar, begin to bubble and turn a dark caramel-brown, about 40-45 minutes. If the rings on your burner are small, move the pan around every 10 minutes or so to ensure even cooking. When finished, remove the pan from the heat and let stand until cool. The dish can be prepared early in the day up to this point, or even the day before. Cover and let stand in a cool place without disturbing the apples.

About 2-3 hours before serving, preheat the oven to 400ºF.
Drain the raisins. Scatter them evenly over the apples. Roll out the pastry to a 13-14″ circle (or smaller if using a smaller pan) and place on top of the apples. Carefully push the edges of the pastry down inside the pan. Bake for 40 minutes, or until the pastry is golden brown.

Remove the tart from the oven and let it settle for a few minutes. Place a large round/rimmed platter over the tart, then quickly and carefully invert the tart onto the platter. Gently tap on the bottom of the pan to loosen any apples that may have stuck. If any apples still stick to the pan, loosen with a thin spatula and set them back onto the tart. Wait for at least 10 or 20 minutes, then serve warm or at room temperature, with crème fraiche or vanilla ice cream.
Moroccan Tarte Tatin

If you are planning to make this menu for a dinner party and would like to prepare some of it in advance, I have staged the preparation over the course of 4 days.

Day 1:
1. shop for all ingredients
2. prepare or purchase za’atar and spice mix for chicken

Day 2:
1. prepare chicken, refrigerate and re-heat before serving
2. make tahini sauce

Day 3:
1. prepare tart, up to caramelizing the apples, then cool, cover tightly and refrigerate
2. prepare couscous and its tomato sauce, mix, cool, cover and refrigerate until ready to brown it
3. take frozen pastry out of freezer and let it defrost slowly in the refrigerator

Day 4:
1. prepare and bake squash and onion
2. grate radishes, drain, and chill
3. peel and slice oranges, and chill
4. mix dressing ingredients, and chill
5. roll out pastry and place on top of apples (you can chill it again now)
6. bake tart as late in the day as possible, or bake and reheat before serving
7. beginning about 1 hour before serving, reheat chicken, brown the couscous, reheat vegetables if desired, then drizzle with tahini sauce
8. assemble salad just before serving

Shopping List

Produce
2 bunches radishes
5 navel oranges
1 large avocado
4 lemons
fresh mint
4 yellow onions
2 red onions
1 head garlic
1 large piece fresh ginger
2 tomatoes
1 large butternut squash
10 Golden Delicious apples

Seasonings
Za’atar OR fresh thyme, sesame seeds, coarse salt, sumac
Ras-El-Hanout OR: fennel, cumin and coriander seeds
turmeric, cinnamon, paprika, ground ginger, cayenne, nutmeg, cloves, cardamom, allspice

Staples
olive oil
sugar

Special Ingredients
orange blossom water
preserved lemons
chicken broth
coconut milk
dried apricots
mixed olives
tomato paste
tahini paste
pine nuts
dark raisins
frozen puff pastry

Dairy
unsalted butter
crème fraiche or vanilla ice cream

Poultry
10-12 chicken thighs

A January Menu for 6

Baba Ghanoush & Crackers
Jamie Oliver’s Fifteen Christmas Salad
Red Wine Braised Duck Legs
Fennel, Celery Root and Potato Purée
Arugula Salad
Grand Marnier Soufflée with Crème Anglaise

With busy schedules it is difficult to find the time to entertain friends at home, but with this menu plan you can spread the work out over several days. Following each recipe here you will find suggestions for advance preparation and at the end I have added shopping lists. I hope you enjoy this winter menu and time to relax with your guests. Read more

Plums, Memories and a Special Birthday

My father remembers that there would often be a plate of buchty waiting for him and his brother on the kitchen table when they came home from school in Prague. They would race in and grab one or two of the little buns which they considered to be the perfect snack: sweet dough wrapped around pitted and sugar-filled fruit. Read more

Italian Dinner for 6

Mixed Mushroom and Gorgonzola Crostini
Arugula and Mint Salad with Watermelon and Feta
Duck Ragù with Potato Gnocchi
Grilled Asparagus and Raddichio
Vanilla Bean Gelato, Chocolate Madeleines and Strawberries

The cookbook that I am currently enamoured with is Nancy Silverton’s The Mozza Cookbook, which brings to the home cook some of the specialties from her popular restaurants in Los Angeles. She writes that she “wanted the recipes to include all the information the reader would need to successfully replicate our food at home”. With this goal in mind, she and her team painstakingly adjusted the recipes so that they work in a home kitchen. Her attention to detail which has contributed to making her such a successful chef, restaurant owner and writer, is reflected throughout the book.

I used this book to guide me in producing an Italian dinner recently, with the duck ragù and potato gnocchi as the centrepiece. Read more

Longing for Spring Berry Pie

I was intending to make a strawberry rhubarb pie recently but it turned out I was pushing the rhubarb season. Not to thwart my yearning for something that tasted spring-summery, I decided to mix raspberries with the strawberries instead. You can use any mix of berries in this recipe, but if you are adding rhubarb, just use a bit less flour (2 tablespoons) and a bit more sugar (1 cup) or to taste. Read more

Louisa’s Ricotta Cake

If you use the Scardillo Italian Style Ricotta Cheese that I recommended for the ricotta gnocchi, you will find that there will be about 1 cup of cheese remaining after making the gnocchi. You will not have to wonder any longer what to do with the leftover cheese if you check out the Food52 website here where you will find a ton of ideas from savoury to sweet. It made me think of Iron Chefs and how many different ways they think of to use one ingredient. Bravo to Food52 for using healthy ricotta cheese for one of their contests. I am eager to try many of them over the next while but here is the winner of the contest, with two adjustments that I have made: less sugar, and raspberry sauce to accompany it. Read more

A Culinary Collage

Happy New Year from Nourishing Vancouver to you, wherever in the world you are living, cooking and nourishing those around you!

While I have had a brief hiatus from posting, I was busy in the kitchen over the holidays, connecting with family and friends, and collecting a few recipes to share ~ connecting…collecting…collaging, from my kitchen to yours. Read more

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